Galy, a Boston-based startup, is pioneering lab-grown cotton as an environmentally friendly
alternative to traditional cotton farming, which consumes significant amounts of water, land,
and pesticides. The startup claims its lab-grown cotton process uses 99% less water, 97% less
land, and reduces the environmental impact of fertilizers by 91%.
Galy was founded in 2019 by Luciano Bueno, who saw potential in using cellular agriculture,
similar to lab-grown meat technology, to create cotton. Galy’s process begins with cells taken
from a cotton plant, which are then cultivated in large vats and fed sugars. Through precise
gene activation, these cells grow into cotton fibers. While Galy has so far only produced
small quantities of cotton, the company is optimistic about scaling its production.
The startup has caught the attention of major cotton consumers such as H&M and Inditex
(Zara’s parent company), both of which have invested in Galy. This comes at a time when the
fashion industry is increasingly scrutinized for its environmental footprint and unethical labor
practices in traditional cotton farming. H&M, for instance, stopped sourcing cotton from
China’s Xinjiang region due to concerns over forced labor.
In addition to its work with cotton, Galy is also exploring the potential to apply its lab-grown
techniques to other products like cocoa and coffee. The company recently raised $33 million
in funding from Breakthrough Energy Ventures, H&M, and Inditex, bringing its total
investment to $65 million. While Galy’s current production costs are still high, its focus
remains on scaling the technology to make lab-grown cotton affordable and widely available,
with the goal of transforming the textile industry into a more sustainable and ethical sector.
